This week’s Nalbound Object features a unique child’s sock made primarily of linen, with small amounts of blue/green and yellow wool incorporated in decorative elements. The surviving parts include the toe, midfoot, and heel. It reflects Coptic culture and is housed at the Museum der Kulturen Basel, Switzerland.
Generally, we think of the Egyptian nalbound socks as being wool. Today’s Nalbound Object of the Week, however, is a linen sock. It does have a bit of wool incorporated. Tiny amounts of dark blue/green and yellow wool are both incorporated in the nalbinding and used in apparent remnants of some decorative stitching. The image provided by the museum shows the sole of the sock, giving a clear view of the wedge heel.
Object: Linen child’s sock with blue/green and yellow wool stripes -III 15476
Description: Only the toe, mid-foot, and heel are remaining on this child’s sock. However, there are several very interesting aspects to this sock. The body is worked in linen. There is a row near the toe tip in a blue/green wool and there are remnants of the ankle being worked in yellow wool. Additionally, there is a full row of each color being used as an embroidery element around the mid-foot. L 15.5 cm, W 8 cm1
Material: Linen.4 Museum’s online record does not note, but the blue/green and yellow stripes are wool5 (as confirmed by examination by Anne Marie Decker)
Some sources in which more information can be found:
Böttcher, Gudrun. “Koptische Nadelbindungstextilien im Museum der Kulturen Basel” in Experimentelle Archäologie in Europa: Bilanz 2004 Heft 3. edited by Corinna Endlich. Oldenburg: Isensee Verlag, 2004: 211-214. ISBN 3-89995-204-9.
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The remnants of dark green and beige wool are noted on the catalog card at the museum. ↩︎
Böttcher writes it as Stitch Type: III and Stitch Variant: F(L) 2 UOO/UUOO. Böttcher, Gudrun. “Koptische Nadelbindungstextilien im Museum der Kulturen Basel” in Experimentelle Archäologie in Europa: Bilanz 2004 Heft 3. edited by Corinna Endlich. Oldenburg: Isensee Verlag, 2004: 211-214. ISBN 3-89995-204-9. pg 213. ↩︎
Continuing with another African Nalbound Object of the Week, this stunning nkutu (prestige cape) comes from mid-19th century Congo. While the tradition of net-like garments being worn by high ranking individuals is believed to have its roots in at least the 16th century, we currently only have evidence of this style of nkutu/kinzembe/zamba kya mfumu from the 19th century.1 There are quite a few examples in museums around the world; including several others in The British Museum.2
Description: A beautiful prestige cape made from raffia palm fiber. This cape has openwork that forms several undulating chevrons. Close examination shows that the individual lengths of fiber were knotted to the previous as each new length was added to continue the nalbinding. There is a cut and bound slit in the middle for the head. The outer edge has raffia fringe knotted on. Length: 79 cm, Width: 125 cm3
Stitch(es) used: The museum catalog states it is an “Interlinked structure arranged in narrow bands with worked holes throughout.”8 The catalog also references a publication where it states the cape was made “using a form of interlinking (sprang).”9 Interlinking is a structural term, not a technique. Sprang can use interlinking (amongst other structures), but so can other techniques. In this case, the nalbinding stitch used does not just intralace once with the previous stitches in the same row as in many spiraled nalbinding stitches. Instead, this stitch intralaces and interlinks several times with each previous stitch before crossing itself to proceed to the next stitch.
The beautiful zoomable photographs in the The British Museum’s online catalog show that this cape was nalbound in the same stitch as that found in the Kongalese Prestige Cape that is in The Textile Museum that was February 13, 2024’s Nalbound Object of the Week: B1 UU/OO/UU/OOU as determined by Anne Marie Decker during her examination on 14 June 2023.
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The net-like garment found on the statue ostensibly of António Manuel ne Vunda, Kongalese ambassador to Rome in 1608 has been interpreted as an earlier version of these prestige capes. However, it does rather look more like the net-like garment worn by a priest of the ngufui sect in Sierra Leone as shown on page 154 of “Weaving in Africa: South of the Sahara”. ↩︎
LaGamma, Alisa, ed. Kongo: Power and Majesty. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2016. ISBN 978-1-58839-575-7 p.108 fig.66 (text by John K Thornton) ↩︎
Inv. 9318. Photo Credit: Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst /CC BY-SA 4.0
Object: Red Hat with tassel – 9318
Description: A lovely red nalbound hat with a point extending to a multi-stranded tassel. Two thirds of the point are covered with blue and yellow cross-knit looping worked in a graphic pattern and supported underneath with a linen/cotton cloth. The red hat section is worked in a very open density for the gauge. It is smooth on the outside, but on the inside there are loose strands of the yarn fibers leading to an almost thrummed or brushed interior appearance. There are two fine yellow threads loosely sewn around the opening of the hat. Length x Width: 63 x 24 cm1 Height of the crown is 18.5 cm.2
It is interesting to note that the tassel is no longer attached to the hat as evidenced by examining the various photographs taken over time showing the hat in a different orientation to the tassel. The hat is currently sewn to its conservation backing with the side that was under the head currently showing. The photograph published with Bush’s article shows the front.
Dated to: Originally thought to be 9th to 10th century CE,3 it has since been radiocarbon dated to between the 11th and early 13th century CE. The museum catalog entry states it was radiocarbon dated to 1036–1215 CE.4 Fluck and Mälck’s article indicates the radiocarbon dating dates it between 1040 and 1220 CE.5
Find location: Arsinoë (Krokodilopolis)6 now in the city of Faiyum7
Material: The cap is made of a red wool yarn S-plied of two unspun threads; possibly mohair wool as it is fine and hairy. The tube section is blue and yellow silk threads, both S-plied of two unspun threads. Inside the tube is a linen warp cotton weft woven fabric. The tassel is bundled linen threads (S-spun) and green or yellow silk threads.8
Stitch(es) used: Hat: looped needle netting Type IIIa (which is Hald’s designation of Mammen stitch). Confirmed to be F2 UOO/UUOO, Mammen stitch, by Anne Marie Decker based on photographs provided by the museum on March 12, 2019. Tube: Fluck and Mälck state single needle technique.9 Hald calls it mesh stitch,10 but diagrams it correctly. These days we call it Z-crossed Cross-knit Looping (F1B1 O) which has been confirmed by Anne Marie Decker based on photographs provided by the museum on March 12, 2019.
Claßen-Büttner, Ulrike. Nalbinding – What in the World Is That? History and Technique of an Almost Forgotten Handicraft. Norderstedt: Books on Demand, 2015. ISBN 978-3-7347-7905-3.
Fluck, Cäcilia, and Kathrin Mälck. “Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin” in Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries : proceedings of the 4th meeting of the study group ‘Textiles from the Nile Valley’, Antwerp, 16-17 April 2005, edited by Antoine De Moor and Cäcilia Fluck, 150-165. Tielt (Belgium): Lannoo Publishers, 2007. ISBN 9789020970982.
Schrenk, Sabine, ed. Textiles in Situ: Their Find Spots in Egypt and Neighbouring Countries in the First Millenium CE. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2006. ISBN 3-905014-29-7
Photographs:
Inv. 9318. Photo Credit: Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst /CC BY-SA 4.0Detail of the cross-knit looping tube on Inv. 9318. Photo Credit: Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst /CC BY-SA 4.0This photo was taken before the most recent conservation and mounting and thus shows the side that would have been towards the front. Bush, Nancy; ‘Nålbinding – From the Iron Age to Today’ in Piecework Vol. IX N. 3, May / June 2001; Interweave Press, 2001; pg. 28. Photograph courtesy of the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin-Preußischer Kulturbesitz, Museum für Spätantike und Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin, Germany. Photograph by A. Voigt.
Please note that sharing to other venues will likely be intermittent. If you wish to receive these each week, please remember to follow the blog. Patrons on Patreon receive early access previews, occasional extra details, and priority requests.
https://id.smb.museum/object/2016749/m%C3%BCtze Accessed 2/2/2026. Hald states the circumference is 48 cm which corresponds to the width of the hat when flat as measured in the museum catalog entry. Petra Linscheid, 2018, Object Description in the museum catalog says the circumference is 47.5 cm. ↩︎
Petra Linscheid, 2018, Object Description at https://id.smb.museum/object/2016749/m%C3%BCtze Accessed 2/2/2026. Hald states the crown is 17 cm. Her measurements would have been taken prior to the most recent conservation and mounting. ↩︎
Fluck, Cäcilia, and Kathrin Mälck. “Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin” in Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries : proceedings of the 4th meeting of the study group ‘Textiles from the Nile Valley’, Antwerp, 16-17 April 2005, edited by Antoine De Moor and Cäcilia Fluck, 150-165. Tielt (Belgium): Lannoo Publishers, 2007. ISBN 9789020970982. pg. 158. ↩︎
https://id.smb.museum/object/2016749/m%C3%BCtze Accessed 2/2/2026. Hald had erroneously listed it as found in Antinoupolis and that was repeated in Bush’s article. This was corrected in Cäcilia Fluck and Kathrin Mälck’s article “Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin” ↩︎
Pleiades is a gazetteer of ancient places that is very useful for locating find locations that may only be recorded under the ancient location name. R. Müller Wollermann, Brady Kiesling, Sean Gillies, Jen Thum, Jeffrey Becker, H. Kopp, Herbert Verreth, B. Siewert-Mayer, Mark Depauw, R. Talbert, Johan Åhlfeldt, Adam Prins, W. Röllig, Tom Elliott, DARMC, Francis Deblauwe, and Eric Kansa, ‘Krokodilopolis/Ptolemais Euergetis: a Pleiades place resource’, Pleiades: A Gazetteer of Past Places, 2025 <https://pleiades.stoa.org/places/736948> [accessed: 03 February 2026] ↩︎
Fluck, Cäcilia, and Kathrin Mälck. “Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin” in Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries : proceedings of the 4th meeting of the study group ‘Textiles from the Nile Valley’, Antwerp, 16-17 April 2005, edited by Antoine De Moor and Cäcilia Fluck, 150-165. Tielt (Belgium): Lannoo Publishers, 2007. ISBN 9789020970982. pg. 158. Hald, and thus Bush’s article, stated the hat itself was also silk, not just the tube. That has since been corrected in the more recent publications. ↩︎
Fluck, Cäcilia, and Kathrin Mälck. “Radiocarbon analysed textiles in the Skulpturensammlung und Museum für Byzantinische Kunst, Berlin” in Methods of dating ancient textiles of the 1st millennium AD from Egypt and neighbouring countries : proceedings of the 4th meeting of the study group ‘Textiles from the Nile Valley’, Antwerp, 16-17 April 2005, edited by Antoine De Moor and Cäcilia Fluck, 150-165. Tielt (Belgium): Lannoo Publishers, 2007. ISBN 9789020970982. ↩︎
While I’ve mentioned this Nalbound Object of the Week in an earlier post, link here, I did not include the find data. So this week we take a closer look at the 17th century mitten found in the ramparts of the city of Copenhagen. Like many mittens and socks of this time, it has some tar stains. If you look very closely, there is some two toned embroidery around the cuff edge. One thread of which still retains some reddish coloring (I’ve included a detail photo below).
Mitten found in Mikkel Bryggersgade, D7403b. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
Object: Mitten with an embroidered cuff – D7403b
Description: A mitten for the right hand with some tar stains and two colored embroidery around the cuff worked in opposing whip stitches that create small triangles.1
Stitch(es) used: Hald stated that 3 of the 4 mittens found in the ramparts of Copenhagen were Type IIa (which is UO/UOO) with the 4th too felted to tell and includes photos of two of which this mitten is one. Eskelund Rüssel catalogs this mitten as UOOO/UUUOO F15 which I am not seeing in the mitten. Further examination will be required.
Does anyone have a copy of this publication? Vestergård Pedersen 2003. Nålebinding. Center for Historisk Teknologi. Middelaldercenteret Nykøbing F. S. 1 – 16.
Photographs:
Museum information for the display including D7403b. Photo credit: Anne Marie DeckerMuseum legend for the display including D7403b. Photo credit: Anne Marie DeckerCloseup of the embroidered cuff of D7403b. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
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Personal viewing while on display, August 27, 2019. ↩︎
For a person that has spent a lot of time examining stockings, this is an excellent time of the year. The Museum der Kulturen Basel has the largest collection of Egyptian nalbinding1 and they just recently put their entire collection online. So this week’s Nalbound Object of the Week is one of my favorite of the children’s socks.
Object: Child’s sock with orange, blue and yellow stripes – III 15474
Description: The sock is striped with blue, orange, and yellow stripes and a natural (now cream) base that shows mostly in the wedge heel. It has a relatively short, undifferentiated, toe box with a rather large wedge heel. The ankle is damaged and its true height unknown. Length 17 cm2
Dated to: 4th century ?3 CE (This is a very old art historical based dating. There has been no scientific dating of compound Egyptian nalbound socks. More recent excavations are finding compound nalbound socks in 11th century layers. I would dearly love to have a few of these radiocarbon dated as exactly when compound nalbinding began cannot be determined without solid dating.)
Some sources in which more information can be found:
Böttcher, Gudrun. “Koptische Nadelbindungstextilien im Museum der Kulturen Basel” in Experimentelle Archäologie in Europa: Bilanz 2004 Heft 3. edited by Corinna Endlich. Oldenburg: Isensee Verlag, 2004: 211-214. ISBN 3-89995-204-9.
Please note that sharing to other venues will likely be intermittent. If you wish to receive these each week, please remember to follow the blog. Patrons on Patreon receive early access previews, occasional extra details, and priority requests.
That we know of so far because I am certain there are more socks out there in boxes and the backs of drawers that haven’t been opened in a century. ↩︎
Böttcher writes it as Stitch Type: III and Stitch Variant: F(L) 2 UOO/UUOO. Böttcher, Gudrun. “Koptische Nadelbindungstextilien im Museum der Kulturen Basel” in Experimentelle Archäologie in Europa: Bilanz 2004 Heft 3. edited by Corinna Endlich. Oldenburg: Isensee Verlag, 2004: 211-214. ISBN 3-89995-204-9. pg 213. ↩︎
This week I get to share with you the excitement of finding out about a rare find in a church I once visited. Some regions have preserved many finds, but textiles in Ireland are relatively rare and nalbound ones more so. Thus this week’s Nalbound Object of the Week is the second known nalbound artifact from Ireland. The fragments were found in the 12th century occupational debris. Photos have been published this year in Textiles of Ireland: Archaeology, Craft, Art by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett if you would like to see them. There’s also a nice diagram in 2006 Archeological Monograph on the excavations.
St Audoen’s Church & Visitor center when we visited on April 27, 2014. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
Object: Two main fragments. Usage unknown, but possibly a sock or cap.
Description: The larger fragment is 30 cm long by 8 cm high1 showing the remains of 6 rows. The smaller fragment is 6 cm long by 5 cm high2 with remains of 3+ rows. The thickness of both is c. 2mm.3 Original use as a mitten was ruled out as the length of the larger fragment would exceed the circumference appropriate for a mitten and is more suitable for a sock or a piece of a cap.4 There is no evidence of either intentional or wear fulling.5
Find location: Found in the 12th century occupation debris associated with timber structures during excavation of St. Audoen’s church, Cornmarket, Dublin, Ireland.7
Material: A dark brown, naturally colored, coarse, perhaps kemp-like, wool. No dye detected. The yarn has been combed and worsted spun in a medium to loose Z spin then two-plied with an S twist. The yarn is 1.5 mm in diameter.8
Stitch(es) used: uo o/u uoo F1 based on analysis of one of the outermost rows of loops.9 (Korgen)
Inventory number: E497:2428.325
Current location: Still tracking that down. The detailed catalog was lodged with the excavation archive in the Department of the Environment, Heritage and Local Government. Some of the items excavated at St Audoen’s remain there on display in their Visitor’s Centre.
Link to museum catalog or other data: none known
Some sources in which more information can be found:
Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. “Textiles” in the Archaeological Finds chapter of St Audoen’s Church, Cornmarket, Dublin: Archaeology and Architecture by Mary McMahon. Dublin: The Stationary Office, Government of Ireland, 2006. ISBN 0-7557-7315-2
Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. Textiles of Ireland: Archaeology, Craft, Art. Edited by Mary Ann Williams. Cork: Cork University Press, 2025. ISBN 9781782055716
There is also an archeological drawing contained the the archeological monograph, St Audoen’s Church, Cornmarket, Dublin: Archaeology and Architecture, by Mary McMahon: Fig. 6.9 on page 74.
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300 x 80mm. Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. “Textiles” in the Archaeological Finds chapter of St Audoen’s Church, Cornmarket, Dublin: Archaeology and Architecture by Mary McMahon. Dublin: The Stationary Office, Government of Ireland, 2006. ISBN 0-7557-7315-2 page 74 and republished in Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. Textiles of Ireland: Archaeology, Craft, Art. Edited by Mary Ann Williams. Cork: Cork University Press, 2025. ISBN 9781782055716. pg. 230 ↩︎
60 x 50mm. Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. “Textiles” in the Archaeological Finds chapter of St Audoen’s Church, Cornmarket, Dublin: Archaeology and Architecture by Mary McMahon. Dublin: The Stationary Office, Government of Ireland, 2006. ISBN 0-7557-7315-2 page 74 and republished in Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. Textiles of Ireland: Archaeology, Craft, Art. Edited by Mary Ann Williams. Cork: Cork University Press, 2025. ISBN 9781782055716. pg. 230 ↩︎
Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. “Textiles” in the Archaeological Finds chapter of St Audoen’s Church, Cornmarket, Dublin: Archaeology and Architecture by Mary McMahon. Dublin: The Stationary Office, Government of Ireland, 2006. ISBN 0-7557-7315-2 page 75 and republished in Wincott Heckett, Elizabeth. Textiles of Ireland: Archaeology, Craft, Art. Edited by Mary Ann Williams. Cork: Cork University Press, 2025. ISBN 9781782055716. pg. 232 ↩︎
Fresh off the presses, we’ve got a new article that includes quite a few nalbound examples; including one I hadn’t seen before!
“Icelandic mittens from archaeological contexts” by Charlotte Rimstad, Ulla Mannering, Joe W. Walser III, Freyja H. Ó. Sesseljudóttir and Susanne Mueller includes some very nice photographs of several nalbound mittens; the one found in Iceland and several comparables from Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.
When they say click on the image, they mean click on the orange cover image with the pair of mittens on it. That is the only place where the download link is located. I have heard there are some issues with the image loading on some mobile devices.
The shape of the cuff of this week’s Nalbound Object of the Week never really fit with the 10th century dating assigned to it when it was found in the late 19th century. Recent radiocarbon dating reveals that the mitten from Iceland is dated to between the late 15th to early 17th centuries CE which makes much more sense given its shaping. As more research is conducted on nalbinding, we begin to get a clearer picture of its usage, distribution, and dating.
Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 back on display after I examined it. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 1 Sept 2022
Object: Iceland Mitten
Description: The mitten is densely nalbound of a two ply yarn made of wool fibers of two colors and crimps. Overall the mitten is currently a lovely reddish brown, but close examination shows that there are some darker smoother fibers intermittently mixed with lighter brown crimpier fibers bringing to mind the two coated sheep of Iceland. There is some damage to the cuff and a bit near the base of the pinky finger, but overall the mitten is in good condition. The thumb is rather large in comparison to the size of the fingers and lays flat with an extremely neatly worked connection. It is worked from the tip to the cuff. The direction of work spirals in an S slant fashion which gives the appearance of a right to left working direction when observing the current exterior. However, the stitch itself belies the thought that it might have been worked left handed and more likely it has been turned inside out leaving the technical front currently inside.
Dated to: Recently radiocarbon dated to 1480-1640 CE.1 The original dating of the 10th century had been estimated when the mitten was found in the late 19th century and was based on jewelry found nearby.2
Find location: The mitten was found in 1889 when they were digging to build a new house at the farm at Arnheiðarstaðir in the east of Fljótsdalshérað, Iceland.3
Material: Wool4 Two-ply with a diameter of just under 1/8th inch (3mm).5
Stitch(es) used: Oslo F1, F1 UO/UOO6 (Stitch determination by Margrethe Hald. Confirmed by Anne Marie Decker during her examination of the mitten on 1 September 2022)
Gauge: 6 stitches to the inch. 1 and 3/4 rows to the inch.7
Pálsson, Pálmi. 4. Tveir hanzkar in “Um myndir af gripum í forngripa-safninu.” Árbók Hins íslenzka fornleifafélags10. Reykjavik 1895. pgs. 34-35.
Rimstad, Charlotte, Ulla Mannering, Joe Wallace Walser III, and Susanne Mueller. “ICELANDIC MITTENS” Oral Presentation at the European Association of Archaeologists 29th EAA Annual Meeting in Belfast, Northern Ireland, 30 August – 2 September 2023 https://www.e-a-a.org/EAA2023/Programme.aspx?Program=3 click on the Abstract Book (30 Aug) link to find the abstract.
Photographs:
Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 24 Jan 2019Display including the Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 24 Jan 2019 Anne Marie Decker’s hand comparing size with the Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 24 Jan 2019Tip of Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 and thumb. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 24 Jan 2019Arnheiðarstöðum Iceland mitten Þjms. 3405 taken from above to better show the damage to the outer edge. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker – 24 Jan 2019Photos taken when I first saw the mitten on display in January 2019.
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The museum made the decision to post the recent radiocarbon dating in the online catalog entry for the mitten https://sarpur.is/Adfang.aspx?AdfangID=323304 Accessed 27 May 2024. The online catalog entry also contains a link to the testing laboratory’s Report of Radiocarbon Dating Analyses: https://sarpur.is/Uploads/Files/2290209.pdf (Accessed 23 June 2024). The dating was presented in the Icelandic Mittens presentation given by Charlotte Rimstad et. al. at the European Association of Archaeologists 29th annual meeting in Belfast in 2023 which was apparently not recorded, but the dating is noted in the Abstract for the presentation (pg. 1079 of linked pdf). Apparently an article will be forthcoming in an issue of the Norwegian Textile Review this summer or fall. ↩︎
Hald, Margrethe. “Vötturin fra Arnheidar-Stödum” in Arbok Hins islenzka fornleifafélags, 50. årgang, 1949-1950, Island, pgs. 73-78 ↩︎
One of the best things about researching any topic is that continued research will always bring further insights; be that greater clarity on a particular detail, proof of a particular theory, proof that a particular hypothesis was wrong, correcting a technique misidentification, new design details, new stitches, new dating, and more artifacts to examine. Hypotheses get developed and sometimes they are supported and possibly proven. Sometimes they are disproved and new hypotheses are born.
Add to that, things that are true of our modern esthetics in the craft may prove to be constant throughout the historical record, or they may prove to be recent inventions. Care should always be taken to ensure that we are not making assumptions, even based on our prior knowledge, and allowing our biases to hide the new data. Insights may come from the most unexpected sources and even experts can be proven wrong. I have had thousands of theories that have been made or dashed with arrival of new data. It’s exciting!
I’ve discussed several examples of this process on this blog previously,1 but today, I’d like to add a few additional examples.
Direction of work:
Nalbinding is predominately worked left to right, regardless of whether the work is dependent from the working row or hung above. Both of which leave telltale, but different, signs in the resultant fabric. Obviously, there are exceptions: lefthanded people often work in the opposite direction, and of course, there is the option of an esthetic choice to work in the non-dominant direction for a variety of reasons; including opposing spirals or flat work for example.
So the question becomes, how often do we see nalbinding worked in the non-dominant direction, when, where, and can we tell why? This is not an easy question to answer as so little research published has included this important detail about the artifacts.
Several of the artifacts that initially appeared to be worked in the non-dominant direction have turned out to be more likely found with the technical back to the outside. For example the Egyptian sock now in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh.2 This could be accomplished by working in the non-dominant direction, but is more likely simply a case of the creator or wearer deciding that they preferred the texture of the technical back to the outside. In the case of the sock in Edinburgh, it seems a common trait of socks made in that particular stitch. In the case of the pair of socks from Sudan,3 only one is “inside out.” This could be a case of the wearer not noticing, the person dressing the dead not noticing, or some cultural reason of which I am not aware.
In both cases, and in fact in all of the 115 or so known Egyptian socks, the socks are worked from the toe up to the ankle. The hats from the tip down. Up until very recently, all of the pre-17th century handcoverings I’ve examined have been worked from the tip of the fingers to the wrist. And yet, last year I had the opportunity to examine a beautiful glove from medieval Kalmar that surprised me in several ways. One was the particular stitch used as I had never seen its like before. And the other, was that it was clearly worked from the wrist towards the fingers. More research as to the direction of work of thumbs (and fingers on gloves), especially in relation to the associated handcovering, is desperately needed.
Wrist Bumps:
17th century mitten with a tar stain from Copenhagen . National Museum of Denmark Photo credit: Anne Marie DeckerCloseup of the wrist bump on the 17th century mitten from Copenhagen. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
I once had a idea that wrists that showed a prominent bump in the spiral might have been started at the wrist. Examinations of artifacts has consistently proven me wrong so far on that hypothesis. It was my modern esthetics that had given the the incorrect impression that the maker would always smooth out the final spiral.
Now, we do have examples where the final spiral ending is rather smooth. The Oslo mitten gives the appearance of a smooth ending. However, looking at the rows above it, one can see that it has been pulled and distorted such that the result is the edge currently looks like it was smoothly finished, but in fact it was a rather short transition that now significantly distorts the row to which it connects.
Oslo Mitten C28155 on display at the Historical Museum in Oslo Photo credit: Anne Marie DeckerDetail of the Oslo Mitten C28155 showing the short transition of the final row. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
Lace:
Another example. In 2004, I was approached by someone with a lace shawl they had that they wanted to know if it could be nalbound or not. The pictures they sent showed that an individual row had a structure we know can be produced by a particular nalbinding stitch, but the connections between rows were unclear, so we were missing important secondary construction details that can be vital to understand which particular technique produced the particular structure fabric.
I allowed as how it was possible that it might be nalbound, but that if it was that brought up many additional questions that would have to be answered. Such as, how would the connections be made in such an openwork structure without falling apart? In 2005, another was brought to my attention. My friend, Virginia Miller, became quite interested in the lace shawls and set about trying to find their source.
Around this time, many other examples of this particular type of shawl were apparently being examined at a variety of locations. Others were recognizing the structure of the chain as being a possible nalbound structure, but the specifics of the secondary constructions details that would reveal their true construction technique would not be recognized until the details of a related structural cross-over were discussed.4 These details show that there are a significant number of miss-identified examples in museums around the world.
Crocheted chain lace shawl from Turkey gifted to me by Virginia Miller in 2012. Photo credit: Anne Marie DeckerDetail of the chain lace shawl from Turkey showing the crocheted connection. Photo credit: Anne Marie Decker
Virginia, having tracked down the origin of at least some of the shawls, kindly managed to procure one for me. Being able to examine one in detail up close has led to an understanding that allows me to understand details that while I had seen them before, had not revealed their relevance. Now, given sufficiently clear photos, it is easy to determine that these shawls are a form of crocheted chain lace. Rather similar in structure to the earliest forms of crochet that been identified.5
Another example of this structure’s construction technique being misidentified is a lovely pair of baby booties in the V&A Collection. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O136095/pair-of-bootees-unknown/ The Simple Looping in cream on the ball at the top of the tassel at the ankles is a form of nalbinding (and also a form of needlelace), but the green lace are these open worked crocheted chains. Once again, it’s the connections between the chains that reveal the technique used.
Hypotheses come and go, but that is in many ways the fun part of research. We are always learning new things. Theories become proven. Hypotheses are dashed and formed again. All of which leads to a better understanding of the entire corpus of both nalbound textiles and related looped textiles, their origins, transmission, development, traditional uses, and influences on the modern craft.
Speaking of exciting new opportunities and artifacts to examine, I have recently learned of new excavated socks to add to the corpus of nalbinding that have never been examined before. Unfortunately, my travel budget to go see them is rather dry. If you’ve enjoyed my research and would like to be a part of my support team, I sincerely appreciate any assistance you are willing to send my way. You can use the one time donation link in the menu or become a monthly Patron. Patrons on Patreon receive priority requests, early access previews, and occasional extra details.
I’ve been hoping to find Sámi nalbinding as there is so much nalbinding in the region, but finding Sámi specific nalbinding has been a bit of a challenge. Today’s Nalbound Object of the Week is a Skolt Sámi hat collected in 1933 that was brought to my attention by Ingela Lindberg Anderson after her trip to the National Museum of Denmark. As she was trying to find more information about some of the objects she had seen on display, she ran across this hat in the online catalog.
Skolt Sámi hat ObjectId 19278 Item number K.782 Photo credit: Mads Kildegaard Nielsen – Nationalmuseet, Danmark CC-BY-SA
Object: Skolt Sámi hat
Description: A light brown, natural colored, nalbound hat. The National Museum of Denmark provides the following measurements: Largest measurement 22 cm, Diameter 18 cm, Height 18 cm.1
Dated to: collected in 1933
Find location: The museum lists the location as “Samer – Suonikylä. Petsamo Lapps, Finland.”2 This reflects the terminology of 1933 when the hat was collected. This region of the larger Sápmi is no longer within the borders of Finland as it was ceded to Russia in the Second World War.3
Stitch(es) used: According to Margrethe Hald, the hat is worked in Långaryd stitch5, UOOOO/UUUUOO F1. However, the surface texture does not match that stitch determination. Further research should follow the Ethical Guidelines for Research Involving the Sámi People in Finland.
Inventory number: ObjectId 19278 Item number K.782
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